Velvet guide
Azo-Free Velvet Fabric for Export Buyers
Buyers in the EU and several other markets ask for azo-free fabric as a matter of course, but the term is often used loosely. It is a restriction on a defined group of dyes, not a general quality claim, and it only means something if it is written into the order and checked. This page explains what azo-free velvet fabric export involves in practice, and how to specify and verify it.
What azo dyes are, and why some are restricted
Azo dyes are the largest group of synthetic colourants and are used across most dyed textiles. The great majority are unproblematic. The concern is a small subset that can break down and release aromatic amines, of which twenty-two are classified as harmful. Under EU REACH, textiles in prolonged contact with skin must not release those amines above 30 mg/kg. Comparable limits apply in several other markets, and India restricts the dyes concerned at source. So azo-free is shorthand for free of the restricted amine-releasing azo dyes, not free of azo chemistry altogether.
What azo-free means for you as a buyer
For a buyer, azo-free is a compliance line item. It means the dyes used on your lot sit outside the restricted list, so the fabric can be sold in markets that enforce the limit and will pass a customs or retailer check. It does not certify anything else. It says nothing about heavy metals, formaldehyde, phthalates or organic fibre content, which are separate tests under separate standards. If your customer's compliance manual asks for more than azo, list each requirement separately on the order rather than assuming azo-free covers the whole file.
How to specify azo-free on a velvet order
Put it in writing at enquiry stage, not after the lab-dip. A workable line reads: 'All shades to be dyed azo-free, free of the aromatic amines restricted under EU REACH Annex XVII, limit 30 mg/kg.' Name the standard your market uses if it differs. State whether you want a declaration on the invoice, a test report, or both, and say who pays for testing. Confirm it applies to every component, because on printed or embroidered velvet the print paste, the embroidery thread and any trim are coloured separately from the ground.
Testing and verification before shipment
Verification is a laboratory test, not a promise. The usual method is EN 14362-1, with EN 14362-3 for the dyes that need a different extraction, and ISO carries equivalent versions. A sample is taken from the dyed fabric and reported against the 30 mg/kg limit. Test the bulk lot rather than the lab-dip, because the dyeing that matters is the one you are shipping. Reports are lot-specific and dated, so keep the report number tied to the invoice and roll numbers. Testing can be booked with any accredited laboratory you nominate.
Our azo-free velvet fabric export lines
Azo-free dyeing is available across our dyed velvet lines. 100% cotton velvet is the established one here and is regularly supplied to overseas buyers on that basis, in plain and embossed finishes. Viscose velvet and upholstery velvet can be run the same way. Dyeable RFD velvet ships undyed, so the requirement passes to whoever dyes it at your end, which is worth flagging to your dyehouse early. On polyester qualities such as micro velvet and knitted stretch velvet, dyeing uses disperse dyes; ask on the order and we will confirm what can be run and tested.
Paperwork and where it fits in the shipment
An azo-free requirement usually shows up in three places: the purchase order, the invoice or a separate declaration, and the test report if one was booked. None of it replaces the standard export set of commercial invoice, packing list, transport document and certificate of origin, and it does not change the classification, since velvet stays a pile fabric under HSN 6001. Keep the paperwork with the consignment rather than sending it on later. If a customs authority or a retailer's compliance team queries the goods, the lot-linked report settles it quickly.
Frequently asked questions
Is azo-free the same as OEKO-TEX certified?
No. Azo-free refers to a specific restriction on dyes that release listed aromatic amines. Certification schemes cover a wider set of substances and require an audit. Ask for whichever your market actually requires.
Do you provide an azo-free test report?
Testing can be arranged with an accredited laboratory you nominate, on the bulk lot, with cost and timing agreed on the order. We can also issue a written declaration where a report is not required.
Does azo-free dyeing change the shade range or the price?
The shade range is broadly the same, though a few colours are harder to match within the restricted palette. Any difference in cost or lead time is quoted with the order rather than applied afterwards.
Which velvet should I choose if I need azo-free for garments?
Cotton velvet and viscose velvet are the usual choices for garments, and both can be dyed azo-free. If you dye in your own country, buy dyeable RFD velvet undyed and apply the requirement at your dyehouse.
